40 Hours in Munising
/“The wolf” is what I called Lake Superior as a child. The largest freshwater lake in the world and northernmost of the five Great Lakes, its shape on a map is distinctly lupine. It captured my imagination through the many stories of ships caught and worried in its merciless teeth during storms.
Thousands of ships have been wrecked in Superior, and thanks to its cold, clear waters, you can view many of them in the shallower areas, just feet below the surface. There aren’t many places you can get the thrill of seeing, with your own eyes, one of the ghost ships of yore. But in the small town of Munising, Michigan, you could do this every day.
In addition, I was eager to visit Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, a study in sculpted, colorful cliffs that would make any photographer drool. The south end of the park is right next to Munising, and the north end next to Grand Marais.
Pictured Rocks viewed from the water.
Pasties and vintage motels
I was already visiting western Michigan in August, so I set aside just a couple of days in which to pay homage to Superior. I flew into Detroit, rented a car, and drove six and a half hours straight up the middle of Michigan and through the Upper Peninsula to the shore of Superior.
Miners' pasties are a thing.
My route from the “Mighty Mac” bridge started westward, skirting the northern edge of Lake Michigan. I passed a series of signs advertising traditional miners' pasties and smoked whitefish at roadside stores.
Several abandoned motor inns from the 1930s and ‘40s strongly tempted me to stop driving and capture their picturesque disrepair with my camera. But I resisted, and eventually, turned north for the last hour on a two-lane highway into town.
Small town charm, sort of
Munising has clearly made tourism its bread and butter. Some downtown buildings retain vintage character in brickwork, glass blocks, and painted signs. The restaurants are few and basic in menu selection, but there is a good coffee shop. You can get the requisite postcards and cheesy souvenirs at several locations, and even nice local pottery and photographs at UP-Scale Art shop on West Superior Street.
During the summer tourist season, hotels and motels book up early, and the rates are high. My small two-story motel was over $150 a night for a quality level that would usually rate $60. The place was having issues with its water heater when I arrived, but the owner texted me updates of the progress, and the hot water was soon restored. Also, I was close to downtown, so overall, it was a win.
Shipwrecks and cliffs
I chose Glass Bottom Shipwreck Tours to see Munising Bay. There are a couple of other outfits that will take you to see shipwrecks or gaze on sunsets over Grand Island and the southern shoreline of Pictured Rocks. Glass Bottom Shipwrecks took us on a two-hour trip that not only showed us two shipwrecks, but also much of the cliffs and the East Channel Lighthouse.
It’s hard to describe the feeling of passing over the deck of a schooner that sank in the 1870s, a mere six feet below the bottom of the boat. There’s plenty of time to look, because the boat is divided into groups, and each group gets to view from the glass bottom. While the boat is making another pass over the wreck, you can see the shipwreck just as well, if not better, from looking over the side of the boat.
The canal schooner Bermuda, sunk in the 1870s.
Kayakers and small pleasure boats were out on the bay in force that day, as it was in the mid-80s—an unusual phenomenon for the Upper Peninsula, even in August. The kayakers largely stuck to the cliffs, wending their way in and out of the trademark small archways in the cliffs.
East Channel Lighthouse on Grand Island.
I was only slightly disappointed not to get caught in a violent gale while on my cruise. That day, the lake was serene and friendly, not at all wolflike. It was idyllic. I couldn't have picked a better day to be out on the water.
A little of everything
After my long travel day and my time out on the water, I could have used a nap before heading out to hike in Pictured Rocks. But I only had that afternoon to see it, so I ate a quick lunch in my motel room and shouldered my daypack.
A ranger named Cheryl at the visitors center was extremely helpful in planning an itinerary for me. The park is quite long south-to-north, and I wouldn’t be able to hit all the places I hoped before sunset. That meant likely missing Au Sable Point lighthouse and the tall dunes at the north end, as well as some of the super-crowded sections near Chapel Beach.
Sand Point Beach.
However, Cheryl took the time to point out a diverse group of sights: Sand Point Beach and its nearby marsh trail, Munising Falls, the Miners Castle overlook, and the trail to Miners Falls.
This turned out to be a perfect blend of different environments. Sand Point is a perfect sugar sand beach, and the lake was shockingly warm for wading. If I’d had my suit on, I would have jumped in for a swim. The marsh trail across the road was a lovely boardwalk circuit through cattails, pines, and lily pads that I had completely to myself.
Miners Castle Overlook.
Going up the stairs near the right side of Munising Falls takes you to a path touching the cliffs, which are riddled with funny indents, holes, and micro-caves that are really more interesting than the actual falls. Further on, the Miners Castle overlook shows off the postcard-ready Pictured Rocks formations: the dark green pines, the blended rock, and the almost Caribbean turquoise of Lake Superior shallows.
My favorite stop, though, was Miners Falls and the trail leading to it. The forest here is like something out of a fairy tale. Nowhere to be seen is the busy underbrush familiar to hikers in the East. Here, there are just ferns and grasses softly carpeting the ground among the trees. If I had sat down under a birch tree, a unicorn would probably have laid its head in my lap.
The falls itself is striking and noisy, especially after the days of rain that preceded my visit. A few teenagers had been brave enough to climb up behind its spray, and they emerged soaking wet and triumphant. The sun was already getting low by the time I got back to the trailhead and mulled over whether I should chase the sunset to the north end. Knowing it would be nearly dark when I got to Au Sable, I decided to save it for next time.
Even though I didn’t get to see all of Pictured Rocks, what I did see was like a selection of delectable small plates. I’m so happy I had the chance to finally see some of these spectacular views in person.
After a good night’s sleep and a morning stop at Falling Rocks Café and Bookstore for sustenance, I left Munising and began my journey back down to the lower peninsula. Would I go back? Definitely. But next time, I’ll add another 12 hours.
Practical tips for your visit:
Remember, it’s about the lake. You’re not there for plush hotel surroundings, craft breweries, or high-end shopping. This visit is about Lake Superior and its majesty. Once you are out on the boat, kayak, or beach, your mind will be wiped of everything but that incredible clear water passing you in little wavelets. Let go of your expectations and enjoy the surroundings.
Stop by the grocery store. Do you like fruit? Do you like vegetables that are not iceberg salad? Go to Bob’s Family Foods and pick up a few things to supplement the basic fare in the local restaurants. Munising doesn’t have great cuisine, but you’re in the U.P—you’re just lucky you don’t have to kill a deer for dinner.
Ask the rangers for advice. Before heading out into the Pictured Rocks or Hiawatha National Forest areas, stop by the ranger station in the center of town. They’re experts on all the trails and their features, and can recommend the right length and challenge level for your hiking abilities and time constraints.
Zero in on your top activities. Chances are, you only have a short time to take in the many sights: shipwrecks, lighthouses, beaches, and waterfalls. You can fish, dive, kayak, hike, or take a sunset boat cruise. Choose the outdoor adventures you are most excited about and prioritize those.
